A Complete Guide to Chikankari Stitches: From Bakhiya to Jaali

The delicate beauty of Chikankari embroidery lies in its intricate details—the result of a centuries-old craft that uses over 30 different types of stitches. Each stitch tells a story and adds a unique texture and dimension to the fabric. While a finished piece is a work of art on its own, understanding the individual stitches that make up the whole can deepen your appreciation for this timeless craft. At ShaSumz, we pride ourselves on authentic, hand-embroidered pieces. Here is a guide to some of the most iconic Chikankari stitches you'll find in our collections.

The Foundation Stitches: Creating the Core Design

These are the most common and essential stitches that form the base of most Chikankari patterns.

Bakhiya (Shadow Work): This is perhaps the most famous and recognizable Chikankari stitch. Bakhiya is done from the reverse side of the fabric. The thread is woven in a way that creates a 'shadow' on the front, giving the design a subtle, see-through effect. It is typically used to fill large floral motifs and leaves, adding a soft, ethereal quality.

Tepchi (Running Stitch): A simple and elegant running stitch, Tepchi is used to create the outlines of motifs, patterns, and borders. It's the first step in outlining many designs and is often used to create a fine, delicate outline around a leaf or flower. Its simplicity is what makes it so beautiful and versatile.

Murri and Phanda (Knotted Stitches): These two stitches are often used together to add a raised, three-dimensional texture. Murri creates a small, rice-shaped knot, while Phanda creates a larger, millet-shaped knot. These small, raised dots are perfect for filling the center of flowers or adding a delicate, beaded effect to a pattern.

The Decorative Stitches: Adding Intricate Detail

These specialized stitches are used to add complexity, richness, and artistic flair to a piece.

Jaali (Net Work): This is a truly remarkable stitch. Jaali creates a delicate, see-through net-like pattern in the fabric without cutting or tearing the material. Artisans carefully pull apart the threads of the fabric and weave them together to create an intricate web. This stitch requires immense skill and patience and is a hallmark of high-quality Chikankari.

Hool (Eyelet Stitch): Hool is a detached buttonhole stitch used to create small, beautiful circles or eyelets within a design. These tiny holes add a charming, open-work detail to the embroidery. It's often used to create the petals of flowers or to add a decorative element to a border.

Keel Kangan (Twisted Knot): This stitch creates a series of small, twisted knots that are often used to fill the petals of flowers or create a simple, linear pattern. The knotting technique adds a slightly raised, textured feel to the design, giving it a unique character.

The beauty of a Chikankari garment is a testament to the collective mastery of these stitches. Each thread, each knot, and each carefully placed shadow contributes to a final work of art. The next time you hold a piece of Chikankari from ShaSumz, take a moment to look closely at the different stitches—you'll see the history, the skill, and the passion of the artisans woven into every thread.